A couple of weeks back, my two climbing partners, Marcel and Johanes, took me to a couple of cliffs they found near the the observatory on the summit of the Sly Resort Mountain.
Who would have guessed that just 30 minutes from the center of Ulaanbaatar
, we’d find an observatory, some nice hiking trails, and pleasant climbing routes too.
So far, we’ve played on three cliff on did some boulder problems. Within 20 to 30 minutes of Ulaanbaatar, this could be the most convenient climbing area for me while I’m in Mongolia.
The first cliff they showed me, Thriller Rock, had some fun and interesting routes about 15 to 17 meters high. Two excellent dihedrals in the 5.9 range that both take excellent protections were an obvious first choice.
variations waiting to be done. In the spring, when the ground isn’t frozen, I’ll bring a crowbar and remove some of the large rocks that create a bad landing. Being only 20 minutes from the school, it might be possible for me to visit after work if the days are long enough.
Johanes tolerated the cold much more than I did. Hoping he and I will meet to climb in Dresden one summer.
Of all the cliffs they showed me behind the observatory, non caught my interest more than “Camel Rock.” It’s gorgeous, appears to be slightly overhanging, but turns out to be very overhung, and has my new project.
Even with temperatures just above freezing, I needed to give this a go. The first moves were already in the 5.11- range. I was shocked.
My first fall came when I was just above my gear. I’d placed the cam early to prevent falling down a steed granite slope below. Glad I did.My next few attempts were much better, each getting me slightly higher than the previous. My hands were numb which was the only reason I was able to pull a couple of the moves. Of course, numb hands didn’t help on some of the bigger slopping holds.
|Bouldering during first snow|
|Hiking out, Sato was to cold to walk.|
|Last lead of the season. Nice job Johanes|
|Avoiding snow when he can.|
|One last boulder problem before going home.|
|Packing it up|
|Johanes on his last boulder problem in Mongolia.|
|Enjoying his last long walk of the year. Kuma|