With cheap airlines tickets available from Air Asia, my wife and I decided to visit Malaysia and explore some of its’ climbing opportunities. Because of time, we based ourselves in Kuala Lumpur and focus on Batu Cave and Bukit Takun which offer some fantastic sport climbing on spectacular limestone. As you know, my wife isn’t a big fan of hiking, so she really enjoyed the five minute approaches.
Located just 20 minutes from downtown, Batu cave sees a lot of traffic. Actually, while we were there, two climbers showed up in suits, changed clothes in thebushes and climb for a couple of hours after a full days work. No abad way to unwind really.
Easy accessibility makes
Batu a popular crag. With eight separate crags and over 170 routes routes from 5.6 to 5.13 and some multi-pitch routes, Batu will keep any climber entertained.
Nearest Address: Jalan TIB 3, Taman Industri Bolton, Batu Caves, Selangor 68100 Malaysia
GPS Coordinates: Longitude: 101.694581 Latitude: 3.242557
Walk into kampong(village) houses, turn left once reached the end of the path, walk pass some houses, the crag and entrance trail can be seen from here.
Bukit Takun, a 300 meter granite and limestone formation roughly 30 km from Kuala Lumpur, might be some of Malaysia first bolted routes. The 40 or so, often multi pitch routes, range from 5.10 to 5.13. I’ve climbed in a lot of areas but Bukit is one of the few places that offers routes that pass through both Granite and Limestone in the same pitch. I had the pleasure of climbing on crimpy granite down low, while using stalactite on the upper pitches. If you want a great adventure, I’m told, check out “Pussy Key” for nine pitches of mixed climbing. While the routes requires natural gear, which we didn’t bring, all the belays are bolted. It caught our eyes and is now on my must do list.
How to Get Here
From Jalan Kuching drive North on Route 1 towards Rawang. You’ll spot the cliff on your right side when coming down hill roughly 10 KM after Batu Cave. Half a KM after the Shell Gas station, pull a U-Turn. Staying in the left lane, turn left just before the gas station toward Templers Park. At the “T” intersection, turn right. 50 Meters after the entrance to the Golf Course, you’ll reach a “Y” intersection park near the guard station. (The guard is usually helpful.)