I started climbing in the mid 1980’s and have worn several climbing shoes of the years. The 80’s revolved around strong foot work, and cramming my feet into tight shoes and jamming cracks have taken their toll. (My feet could be used for close up shots of troll feet in fantasy movies.)
My first pair rock climbing shoes were Boreal Fire and then moved on to Boreal Aces. Both were excellent shoes and I thought I would never give up board lasted shoes for a softer pair.
During the 80’s and early 90’s, shoe demo days were quite common. Climbing shoe manufacturers would hold big events where climbers could try out the various models at the crag. They’ve falling out of favor, but in the early 90’s I had the pleasure of wearing my first pair of 5.10 Moccasyms. I’ve owned a pair ever since.
Yes, like Imelda Marco, the wife of Panama’s ex-president, I have an extensive collection of shoes. I don’t even limit myself to 5.10.
While shoes are designed for different uses and everything from wide-soled big wall shoes to super aggressive bouldering and sport shoes are available, I tend to look for all around shoes that I can wear all day comfortably. For me, the 5.10 Moccasym is that shoe, for my wife, the La Sportiva Mythos does the trick. She currently owns three pairs of La Sportiva Mythos.
While I still own a few other shoes, and regularly test new models, I have yet to find a better shoe than the Mocasym. Design wise, well, the design hasn’t changed since the early 1990’s, so that should give some indication of how well designed they are. (20 plus years, and not discontinued or redesigned.)
I look for durability in a shoe, and the Five Ten Moccasyms hasn’t disappointed their either. In fact, the well-designed leather upper last long enough to withstand two resoles on average for me.
Bottom line, the 5.10 Mocasym is my go to shoe. I use them on thin face, run-out slabs and cracks of all sizes. I even enjoy having my feet turn red from the dye when I initially break in a new pair.