My wife loves shoes. She seems to find great deals on a new pair every week. When it comes to everyday shoes, she has no problem finding a cute design that fits well. Unfortunately for her, climbing shoes seem a bit more complicated.
Rock climbing shoes, size, shape and fit do matter. My wife seems less lucky with climbing shoes than me; so far, she’s found very few models that fit her feet well, especially for all day routes. In my case, almost all shoes fit my foot, but I do have think the Five Ten Moccasym rock.
Like me, most likely because I taught her, she relies heavily on her feet when climbing. Neither of us have a very dynamic climbing style by modern standards, but both of us find places to edge or smear that other partners overlook.
Personally, I found the La Sportiva to be ill fitting, uncomfortable and much to soft. I had very little bite on small edge and smearing was almost impossible. I guess my foot just doesn’t fit the shoe.
Ernita on the other hand, describe the La Sportiva Mythos as the most versatile and comfortable rock climbing shoe she’s ever owned. The patented lacing system helps her create a perfect fit and she’s unfazed by the softness of the shoe. Like me, my wife doesn’t tolerate the cold very well, but in cooler weather, Ernita is a able to wear a thin sock inside the Mythos.
Over the years, I’ve heard great debates around campfires. The two most popular debates seems to revolve around the grade or difficulty of a route and which is the best shoe on the market. For me, shoes are like crack climbs, some hurt more than others and their shape and size makes all the difference on how well they fit your climbing style.